Quirimbas National Park

Having lived in Mozambique for over 2 years, I hold a special place for Mozambique in my heart. The Quirimbas archipelago is breathtaking--full of beautiful islands and turquoise coastlines. Pemba in the province of Cabo Delgado is the closest city and worth a visit, for its sprawling beach, filled with locals on the weekends who go fishing, play football and cool off in the pristine water. While growing in popularity, Pemba still has an authentic feel to it, instead of major hotel chains, the shoreline is filled with beach houses and an increasing number of restaurants serving Mozambican, Portuguese, Italian and Indian cuisines. Near to Pemba lies one of the Quirimbas islands known as Ibo, a major trading port during the colonial ear in the late 18th century. Ibo provides an excellent glimpse into its past history, with colonial houses, schools, government buildings, including the still-standing Fort of Sao Joao providing views of the ocean and the island. For some visitors, Ibo feels like a place lost in time while for others, it is this preservation of the past that draws them in - definitely worth a visit!

I spent two weeks exploring the QNP, poking around the mainland and a handful of the islands in the archipelago. The islands here are what make Moz beaches famous. White sand beaches fringed with palm trees, contrasting the blue, teal and turquoise water. The white sails of local dhows are sprinkled across the horizon as they haul dinner for the archipelago. Lodges on Ibo Island will happily organize for you to join one of these dhows for a few days to hop between uninhibited islands and camping at night. I could not recommend this - especially a trip to Rolas - more! And take a snorkel! There are some local wrecks that are stunning for a cool down swim. While on Ibo, take time to enjoy the spectacular meals prepared based on what is pulled out of the ocean that very day. The snorkeling and diving is unreal. Our first dive at the lighthouse had me feeling like I was in an aquarium. Apart from the giant schools of brightly coloured fish, we also came upon two sea turtles and a small reef shark! Moving onto the mainland was a bit more challenging. One lodge (Mareja) is in operation, and they run treks through the bush. It is a spectacular lodge in an old colonial house, and a stunning park. However, poaching is an enormous problem. Animal sightings are difficult and quick. We spent 5 days tracking elephants to no avail. The local guides are full of knowledge and make these walks very interesting in spite of the skiddish animals. There is wildlife there though - millions of tracks dot the roads, and we heard lion and hyenas calling at night. They are just very very wary of humans. Be aware that this park and accommodation is very basic. There is no food or water readily available so you must be fully self sufficient. The old colonial house does have a spectacular porch which makes for ideal afternoon reading. All in all - its a stunning park that could just use a bit more maintenance. Highly recommend a visit, particularly to the coast!